Bringing Your Baby HomeBringing Your Baby Home

When you get your puppy, you should also receive from (he breeder: either the 
puppy's Registration Certificate or its Application for Registration; a copy of 
its pedigree; a record of its immunizations (exactly what shots and when given) 
and worming; assurance that the puppy has been examined by a veterinarian and 
the name and telephone number of the veterinarian. If you do not receive one of 
these items you should get a written, dated and signed statement from the 
breeder stating when you will receive that item or why you will not.
You may also receive a sales contract. If the puppy is sold on a Limited 
Registration you should received a sales contract. Which includes the terms, if 
any, under which the breeder will lift that restriction. A health certificate 
from the puppy's veterinarian. Written care instructions and a supply of the 
food the puppy eats. You may even he given the puppy's favorite toy.
When you arrive home with your puppy, remember - your puppy is a baby Bulldog. 
Like all babies, he needs lots of love and cuddling, lots of rest and sleep, 
lots of love and cuddling, lots of good, nourishing food and more love and 
Moving to a new home, leaving his dam and litter mates and the only humans he 
has ever really known is a very traumatic experience for the puppy, so try to 
make the move as easy as possible for him. For the first couple of weeks, try to 
change his life as little as possible.
Follow the breeders feeding routine. The same times, the same amount, the same 
brand of food, the same supplements. Feed him in the same place at each meal. Be 
sure he has a special area all his own for his bed. Give him lots and lots of 
cuddling and petting. Do not let him play so long and hard that he becomes 
Sometime during the first week, you should take him to your veterinarian for a 
check up and get to know you visit. Take along the record of his immunizations 
and worming and a stool sample.
Once the puppy is settled securely into his new home, you can begin to introduce 
him to your way of doing things.
If you want to change the brand of puppy kibble he is eating, the change should 
be slow and gradual. Substitute a small amount of the old food with the new 
brand and slowly increase the ratio of new to old until the old brand is 
completely replaced with the new.
A rocking chair or a really comfortable big chair you can sit in and cuddle your 
new Bulldog puppy.
A food dish with straight sides and flat bottom. The best material is stainless 
steel - avoid plastic.
A water dish, stainless steel is best.
A collar and lead. A lightweight, small link "choke" collar is best. It should 
be long enough to slip or the pup's head with room to spare but should not have 
more than a six inch "tail" when around his neck. His first lead should be a 
lightweight one; you'll need a strong leather lead as he grows.
Nail clippers or grinder. Adremel tool with sanding and grinding discs is 
There are several things, which will make life easier and more enjoyable for you 
and your Bulldog.
First in importance is a wire crate. This comes very close to being a necessity. 
It is much easier to house train a puppy if he sleeps in a crate. If you travel 
at all with your dog, he is safer and happier riding in a crate and if you are 
staying overnight he has a place of his own to sleep in. It is just as important 
for your dog to be in a crate in the car as it is for you to wear your seat 
belt. If you do not have a crate, or one won't fit in your car, get him a dog 
safety car harness. Bulldogs do better in wire crates than the Veri-Kennel type 
because the air circulation through the wire crates is so much better. Dogs like 
to have a special "my place" so if you don't have a crate, try one; you and your 
Bulldog will like it.
A grooming table makes brushing, toe nail cutting, whisker clipping, medication, 
etc. etc. much easier. Start the pup out young and he'll soon learn to stand 
still with his neck in the noose and your life will be much easier.
A puppy pen. Even though you have a fenced yard, you may want to confine the 
puppy to or out of a particular area. Puppy pens are easily portable and very 
handy for keeping a puppy confined to a small area. They are especially useful 
for a winter puppy. You can put his bed in his crate, put the crate in a puppy 
pen, and put his papers in a corner of the pen.
If you plan to exhibit your Bulldog you will need a pair of whisker scissors. 
These are small, sharp, blunt end scissors, which you can purchase from a pet 
store, a dog show vendor or a dog supplies catalogue.
A good brush. You can use almost any brush on a Bulldog but the best ones have 
flexible rubber bristles. You want one small enough to fit your hand 
If you travel with your Bulldog you'll need a large insulated water jug so that 
you'll have "home" water available for him. A small water pan that hooks to the 
side of his crate is handy.
Bulldog Medicine Chest
Vaseline, Use this on his nose, on his eye wrinkles, any place you need to 
soothe and waterproof but don't need to medicate. Use it also on the thermometer 
when you take his temperature.
Plastic RealLemon. If he gets phlegm in his throat and chokes on it, a couple 
squirts of juice from the plastic lemon will help clear it out.
A good rectal thermometer.
Clear Eyes, Duolube, etc. for irritated eyes
Aspirin, for minor aches and pains. Most Bulldogs can tolerate aspirin but do 
not give any other human pain reliever such as Tylenol or Advil. Buffered 
aspirin such as Bufferin is better than plain aspirin and Ascriptin is better 
than Bufferin. Remember that the dosage for aspirin, like most pain relief 
medication, is based primarily on body weight. A Bulldog should never be given 
more than one tablet at a time or more frequently than every twelve hours. Some 
Bulldogs are allergic to aspirin, so use with care.
Benadryl, either capsule or liquid. Use this if the dog is stung by a bee or 
other insect, and for minor allergies.
Panalog Ointment a good all-purpose ointment for minor skin afflictions. Also 
good for cleaning wrinkles, tail pockets and ears. Do not put in his eyes.
Bag Balm also useful for minor skin afflictions.
Pepto-Bismol For minor stomach upset.
Kaopectate for minor diarrhea.
Q-tips. Use for applying medication and cleaning ears.
Cotton balls. Use for applying medication, for cleaning and to keep ears dry 
while bathing.
Never ever give your Bulldog a rawhide toy. Even Bulldog puppies can tear a 
piece off the rawhide and choke on it.

Puppies like knotted socks to shake and play tug of war with. They also like 
Nylabone and Gummabone toys. Many like to play with balls, but be sure the ball 
is too big to lodge in the throat. They like cotton tug toys like Booda Bones. 
Some Bulldoggers give their puppies and dogs Choo-Hooves and the dogs really 
like them, but be cautious with these. They are an "only when I can watch you" 
toy. The only real difference between the toys for a puppy and the toys for an 
adult Bulldog is size. The puppy gels a fairly small Gummabone, (he adult gets a 
big one. Just be sure the toy is too big to swallow. Throw a Nyla or Gummabone 
etc. away before it gets so small the dog can get the entire piece in its mouth.
A Bulldog should eat out of a pan which has a flat bottom and straight sides. 
Most Bulldoggers use stainless steel because it lasts longer. Do not use plastic 
either for his food or his water.
Most breeders feed a two to four month old puppy four times a day. At this age 
the kibble is usually softened with warm water. Some add cottage cheese and/or 
yogurt. There are several good brands of puppy kibble. If you are not satisfied 
with the kibble he is eating, try another. You want a kibble the puppy likes and 
which produces a nice coat, keeps the puppy round but not obese, and produces 
solid stools. Most breeders in this area use Nutro's, Iam's, Eukanuba, Purina 
Puppy Chow or Science Diet. Check the list of ingredients on the sack. Do not 
feed your Bulldog a kibble, which contains soybeans.
You may feed the puppy on a set schedule, or have food available to him at all 
times. The pup will flourish under either regimen. The choice depends on which 
is more convenient for you.
How much you feed him depends on the puppy. In most cases, a growing puppy that 
gets sufficient exercise should eat as much as it wants. If the puppy does 
become obese, you may need to regulate the amount he eats, but do not put a 
growing puppy on a severely restricted diet unless a veterinarian who is 
knowledgeable about Bulldog puppies supervises it.
From four to six months a puppy's feeding regimen should remain the same but the 
number of feedings may be reduced to three. At about six months this number can 
be reduced to two. In most cases continue feeding the puppy as much as he wants.
How often you feed a dog a year or more old depends on your preference and the 
dog's. Most dogs do well on one meal a day. Some do better on two meals a day. 
You may prefer to feed in the morning or the evening. This is up to you. If you 
like it and the dog like it, it's the right way.
A Bulldog usually eats puppy kibble until it is at least a year old. If he is 
thriving on puppy kibble, leave him on it until he is at least two years old. 
You can feed him puppy kibble all his life, if it agrees with him. Most Bulldogs 
are changed from puppy to adult kibble at around twelve to eighteen months. The 
best change is to the adult version of the puppy kibble you have been feeding 
him. Ii does not hurt your Bulldog to change from one brand of dog food to 
another and then to another and so on as long as each change is done by 
gradually, substituting more and more of the new brand for the old.
If your Bulldog is spayed or neutered or as it ages and becomes less active, you 
may need to start feeding a reduced calorie dog food to keep it from becoming 
too fat? Most good brands of dog food have such a kibble. Again, it's best if 
you stay with the same brand you've been feeding and change to the "lo-fat" 
Whatever its age, your Bulldog should have fresh water available at all times.
It is not really necessary to add to a good kibble. But you may find your dog 
prefers "goodies" on his food, or does a little better with some. The most 
common supplements are cottage cheese, yogurt and oil. Cottage cheese is 
especially good for growing puppies since the Bulldog must grow a lot of heavy 
bone in a short time. About a tablespoon per feeding. Yogurt helps to keep the 
digestive system working well, about a teaspoon per feeding. Oil helps to keep 
the coat and skin in good condition, about a teaspoon twice a day. Corn or 
canola oil is best - do not give your Bulldog any oil that contains soybean oil.
You may also give your Bulldog a vitamin supplement. Any good vitamin tablet 
such as Vita-Tabs, Theralin, etc. Do not over dose. If the directions say "one a 
day", two is not better. You may also give a vitamin C tablet 100 - 500 units 
per day. Supplements to be very careful about are Vitamins E, D and A. Overdoses 
of these can cause trouble. Also be very cautious about adding more calcium than 
what about a quarter cup of cottage cheese per day adds to what is in the 
kibble. If you plan to breed a bitch, vitamin B complex, including folic acid is 
recommended, but again be careful not to overdose. Iron supplements should be 
given with care and caution.
Treats should usually be dog biscuits. It won't hurt your Bulldog to give him an 
occasional bite of meat, vegetables, fruit, soda crackers, ice cream, etc. etc. 
But do not give him chocolate or onions.

Your Bulldog should be thoroughly brushed at least three times a week. Most 
Bulldogs love to be brushed. Use a soft bristle or rubber brush. Start at the 
rear and brush against the hair. After you've brushed the entire dog against the 
grain, brush it with the grain. Follow this with a good rub down. This will keep 
his hair shiny and his skin healthy. During shedding time, spring and fall, you 
may need to brush more often, give more frequent rubdowns. The idea is to remove 
the dead hair and distribute the natural oils.
A Bulldog that receives frequent brushings and rubdowns does not need frequent 
bathing. Most Bulldoggers bathe their dogs when the dog is dirty - when it 
obviously needs a bath. Of course, if you are exhibiting your Bulldog he needs a 
bath before he goes 10 the show. A show dog in the ring should be a squeaky 
clean dog in the ring.
Where do you bathe a Bulldog? Any place you want to and can! Some Bulldoggers 
have a big deep sink, some use the bathtub, some use the kitchen sink, and in 
the summer some wash the dog on the lawn. You need a place where you can control 
the dog, where you can easily control the water supply and where you can rinse 
the dog thoroughly. It's a good idea, especially with a puppy, to take the dog 
outside to "do his thing" just before you bathe him.
Gather up all the things that you will need before you start. You will need: 
shampoo, any rinses you plan to use, cotton balls, Q-lips, eye ointment or 
mineral oil, Vaseline, wash cloth, towels. You will want a mild, no tears 
shampoo. Most Bulldoggers use a dog shampoo such as Lambert Kay or Groom-Rite. 
Some use a baby shampoo such as Johnson & Johnson No Tears or Avon Tearless. 
Most use a special whitening shampoo for white dogs (Lambert Kay Snowy-Coat, Bio 
Groom Super White, etc.). Many use a special shampoo for red dogs (Ring S 
Burnished Bronze, etc.). You may on occasion need to use a flea shampoo but 
since these are quite harsh, don't use one unless you really need to.
Put a couple of drops of mineral oil or a bit of eye ointment in the eyes and 
place cotton ball securely in each ear before you wet the dog. Wet the dog 
thoroughly from just behind the ears to the tips of the toes on his hind feel. 
Be sure his underside is wet, too, not just the top and sides. Apply the shampoo 
starting at his neck and working back. Work the shampoo in to be sure you get 
all the way through his hair to the skin. Pay special attention to his paws 
(wash between the toes), his tail (clean all around the base), and the genital 
area. On a bitch, be especially careful to clean the vulva. Wet the wash cloth 
and use it to dampen the dog's face and ears. Put some shampoo on the washcloth 
and wash the dog's face. Wash the wrinkles over the nose, on the forehead, 
around the nose and under the eyes. Wash his nose. Wash his ears, inside and 
out. Now rinse. Rinse until you are sure every bit of the dog, especially in the 
wrinkles and tight places, is thoroughly rinsed and there is no shampoo any 
place. If you are applying a rinse, do it now, following the instructions. You 
can use a dog conditioner rinse like Oster Creme Rinse, Oster Coat Conditioner 
or Francodex Oatmeal Creme Rinse, or you can use a "people" conditioner like 
L'Oreal Creme. For a white dog, you can use a rinse of 4 Tbs. Mrs. Wright's 
Bluing, I qt. water, 1/4 cup baking soda. Mix enough bluing into the water to 
get a darkish blue (not black). Pour the bluing mixture over him and work in 
with your fingertips. Do not rinse. Do not towel dry. Let the dog drip dry. For 
red dogs, try VOS Henna Conditioner.
Dry the dog with towels. Take the cotton balls out of the dog's ears and clean 
any wax carefully using a dry Q-Tip or one with a dab of Panalog. Rub a dab of 
Vaseline onto his nose to help keep ii soft. You can then let him air dry or use 
a hair dryer to finish the drying. It's best to keep the dog inside until it is 
completely dry - about two hours.
Most Bulldogs need their toe nails cut on a regular basis - about every two 
weeks. The nails should be kept as short as possible. You may use dog nail 
clippers or an electric grinder. Most Bulldoggers use the clippers, either 
guillotine or scissors type. Which type you use is up to you, but they should be 
sharp. When the blade begins to dull, replace it or buy new clippers - dull 
blades can be painful to the dog.
Each Bulldogger seems to have a different way to clip nails. Find the way that 
works best for you. The important thing is to be able to control the dog so that 
you do not hurt it. A grooming table is probably the best way. You can put the 
dog on the floor and scratch its tummy, or hold it between your legs - whatever 
works. Be especially careful not to cut into the quick. On white nails you can 
see where the quick begins. On black nails cut just to the curve of the nail. 
The clippers usually leave a rough edge. Use a good dog nail file to smooth them 
off. If you use en electric grinder, be very, very careful. It is easy to grind 
into the quick.
The main thing is to make the experience as pleasant as possible for the dog so 
be really careful when cutting nails and don't cut into the quick. If you dog 
takes frequent walks on pavement or such, it will usually wear the nails down, 
so again, be careful as there may not be very much nail to cut. This is 
especially true of black nails, which seem to wear more than the white ones.
Bulldogs tend to have messy face wrinkles. The older they get, the messier the 
wrinkles. How often you clean these wrinkles depends on the dog. Some do very 
well if you clean the wrinkles a couple of times a week. Some need it on a daily 
basis. When you clean the wrinkles, wash his nose and apply a good rub of 
Vaseline to keep it soft. It's better to clean more often than you think you 
need to, than not often enough. You can clean the wrinkles with a soft, damp 
cloth and then dry. Or you can wash them using the shampoo you use to bathe the 
dog. Be sure to rinse thoroughly and dry thoroughly. One of the best ways is to 
wipe the wrinkles clean with Baby Wipes with lanolin and aloe. Whatever method 
you use be sure to get the deep nose wrinkle clean. You may need to put a 
soothing ointment in the deep nose wrinkle. If it is irritated Panalog will help 
to heal. Diaparene Ointment will soothe and dry the wrinkle. This contains zinc 
oxide, so before you apply it, rub Vaseline into the dog's nose. You will almost 
see a sizable number of Bulldogs have "tear stains" of varying degrees of color. 
If the stain is bad, in addition to cleaning you may want to try to remove the 
stain. There are many treatments; you may have to try several before you find 
one that works for you. Some of the commercial products used are Shows "Pretty 
Eyes" Stain remover, Bio-Groom cream (to prevent re-staining) and Diamond Eye. 
You can make a paste of I Tbs. Hydrogen Peroxide and enough cornstarch’s to make 
a thin paste (some Bulldoggers add I Tbs. Milk of Magnesia to the hydrogen 
peroxide and mix the cornstarch into that mixture). Apply to the stain, let dry, 
brush off excess. Apply on a daily basis until the stain in gone, then weekly to 
keep stain from returning. Another method is to rub the stain with a cotton ball 
soaked in Boric Acid. Daily until the stain is gone, then weekly. Or use NM 
Boric Acid ointment (10%) which can be purchased at Payless or most any drug 
store. Another remedy is rubbing a dab of Desitin into the stain to help dry it 
The best way to treat fleas is to prevent them. Some dogs are allergic to flea 
saliva and can develop really serious skin problems so try to keep the flea 
population to a minimum. If you do get a bad flea infestation you may need to 
"bomb" your house or kennel, spray the yard and/or dog runs. Frequent brushing 
is the first defense. Frequently changed bedding is very important. Flea collars 
are not very effective and many Bulldogs cannot wear them. If you do use one, do 
not put one on a wet or damp dog and do not allow the dog to wear a wet collar 
(this includes letting the dog out in the rain with its flea collar on).
You may need to give the dog a bath with a good flea shampoo or use an anti-flea 
rinse when you bathe. The chemicals used in these shampoos are harsh so use them 
only when necessary and follow instructions carefully. Mycodex is probably the 
most used flea control shampoo. There are various types of dips, such as Adams 
i4 Day Flea Dip, and sprays, such as Escort Flea & Tick Spray and Mycodex 
Aqua-Spray. Since these really are medications, it's a good idea to at least 
begin with ones from your veterinarian or an experienced Bulldogger has 
specifically recommended that in your area. Avon Skin so Soft mixed in the rinse 
water is an effective, non-irritating flea deterrent used by several 
Bulldoggers. You can also use the Skin so Soft mixed with an equal part of water 
in a spray bottle, or, if you feel that's a bit too strong, try two capfuls in a 
pint spray bottle. This is also reported to repel mosquitoes and ticks. Above 
all else, a clean environment, especially his bed, is the best flea prevention.
Bedding material used for Bulldogs ranges from straw or wood shavings (for 
kennel dogs) to special dog beds of all types and prices. The most common is 
cotton rugs or blankets which can be washed with ease. Don't pamper your Bulldog 
with a wicker dog bed. He will thoroughly enjoy reducing it to twigs and it 
really isn't a good thing for him to eat. The fake sheepskin rugs available from 
most pet stores and dog catalogues make good beds as they are soft and wash and 
dry with ease. The important thing for bedding is that it be easily washable and 
provide a soft nesting area for the dog. As long as it meets that requirement, 
any bedding will do.
"House" training
The key here is consistency. Take the pup outside, preferably to the same area 
each time, as soon as he wakes up, about ten minutes after each meal, about 
every hour when he's awake, just before his nap or night bedtime. The puppy must 
empty bladder and bowels before he goes to bed for the night. Always praise the 
puppy as he is going, and move away from the area as soon as he is finished. 
Very few dogs will soil their beds, so it is best to keep him confined at night 
and any time you cannot watch him. If you see the pup "hunting" (sniffing and 
circling) take him outside immediately. If you see him urinating or defecating 
in the house, say "NO, NO" and take him outside at once. Do not scold him unless 
you catch him in the act. Praise for correct behavior works much better than 
punishment for "incorrect" behavior. Remember, a puppy is a baby, his capacity 
is small, his muscle control limited. Be consistent, be patient, and you will 
succeed in training him to go outside not inside.
Lead training
The earlier you start the better, but if your puppy has not had any lead 
training before you get him, wait a week or so until he's settled comfortably 
into his new home before you begin.
You will need a light weight "choke chain" collar and a light weight lead. The 
collar should be long enough to slip over his head with ease and have some room 
for growth, but should not be more than six inches longer than the circumference 
of his neck. Put the collar on the puppy 50 that it goes over his neck from his 
left to right. Fasten the lead to the collar and let the puppy lead you around. 
If he doesn't move, move a bit and coax him to move after you. Do not ever pull 
on the lead and drag or choke the puppy. This should be a happy experience for 
the puppy so give him lots of praise. As he becomes used to walking about with 
the collar and lead, begin to give little tugs and encourage him to follow you 
rather than you following him. Always keep him on your left side. Keep his 
lessons short. Several five to ten minutes’ sessions a day are better than one 
half-hour session. Do not play with the puppy during his lesson, but do praise 
him often when he follows you.
Once he is following you with consistency you can begin taking him on walks 
around the neighborhood. You will probably need to give him several gently tug 
the first few times to keep him with you rather than exploring on his own. You 
may need to stop and talk to him a few times. Again, do not pull on the lead and 
drag or choke him. A quick jerk and immediate release on the collar is the way 
to control him. Do not try to rush this. A few minutes a day, every day, lots of 
praise when he does it right, a quick jerk and release to correct when he 
doesn't, lots of praise, patience and consistency and he will soon be walking 
nicely at your side. If you plan to exhibit your puppy, you will also need to 
train him to stand still and let you hold his head. Start this training along 
with the lead training as early as possible.
Problems and Treatments
The second best medical advice any one can give you is, "Find a veterinarian who 
knows and likes Bulldogs." This is one of the reasons why it's a good idea to 
join your local Bulldog Specialty Club. The members can usually refer you to a 
veterinarian who is familiar with Bulldogs and who likes them. Believe it or not 
- some veterinarians don't like Bulldogs, and no matter how good a veterinarian 
lie is he's not a good one for your Bulldog.
The very best advice is to know your Bulldog. Check the entire dog daily. Know 
if he isn't eating, if he isn't playing, if he doesn't seem quite right. Know 
immediately if something is wrong so you can take appropriate action.
There are several minor ailments you can treat at home. Remember that if a home 
remedy doesn't cure the problem in two days, it's time to take the dog to the 
veterinarian. Do not keep trying various methods of home medication.
Liquid Medications
The easiest way to give a liquid medication is with a syringe. You can get them 
from your veterinarian or most drug stores. You want at least a 2cc size. 
Discard the needle. Pull the proper amount of liquid into the syringe, open the 
dog's mouth and "shoot" the liquid onto the back of his tongue.
Pills and capsules
Open the dog's mouth, push the pill or capsule as far down his throat as 
possible, then hold his mouth shut and stroke his throat until he swallows. This 
has been known to work. Or wrap the pill or capsule in a bit of ground beef or 
cheese and feed it to the dog. This usually works.
For minor upset stomach Pepto Bismol or a similar medicine works best. Dose is 
according to the dog's weight. If there is hard vomiting or if the upset lasts 
more than 24 hours, take the dog to your veterinarian.
Kaopektate is most usually prescribed for minor diarrhea. Dose amount depends on 
the dog's weight. If the diarrhea continues longer than 24 hours or if there is 
blood in the stool, take the dog to the veterinarian.
Hot Spots
These are red, weepy, itchy spots. No one seems to really know what causes them. 
It could be fleas, food, allergies, etc. Clean the area thoroughly. You can wash 
with shampoo, rinse and dry. Or clean with Baby Wipes with lanolin and aloe. Or 
wash with Bigeloil. Then apply a medications such as Panalog, Bag Balm, 
Sulfadene, Schreiner's Healing Liniment (from a feed store) or 1% cortisone 
cream (you may need to get this from your own doctor). Clean and apply 
medication daily. You should see improvement by the second day, if not, take the 
dog to the veterinarian.
IInterdigital Cysts
This is another problem that no one seems to be sure what the cause is but 
you'll know one when you see an angry red swelling pop up between the dog's 
toes. First examine the paw carefully, especially the underside between the pads 
to be sure there is no foreign matter (a thorn or such). If there is, take it 
out. Clean the area. Remedies include: (I) Soaking the paw in warm water and 
Epsom Salts or Massengale Douche solution, dry and rub in Panalog. (2) Desenex 
foot powder. (3), Preparation H. (4) Division 5 Bulletin formula. Have your 
veterinarian make this up for you One part 60% DMSO, one part Gentavet solution 
50 mg. per ml. Apply one drop per day; rub in with a Q Tip. Do NOT use more than 
one drop; do NOT apply more frequently than once a day. If you start application 
at the first sign, this solution will prevent the cyst from developing. With all 
these treatments, it's best to continue the treatment for two to three days 
after the cyst is gone.
Fungus Spots
These are somewhat like hot spots, but they are not weepy. Be sure you clean 
away all the "scabby" material. Wash the area and treat with Panalog, Keflex, or 
any good anti-fungal ointment. You can use Demorex shampoo or a sulfur based 
soap for the washing.
Facial Acne or Eczema
Bulldogs are forever putting their faces into all kinds of strange places. Some 
are susceptible to topical bacterial infections. The dog gets pimples on his 
face and chin. Usually you can clear these up just by washing and rubbing in an 
anti-biotic ointment. Or you can try OXYIO (benzoil peroxide) which you can 
purchase at a drug store. If they persist, you will need to get an oral 
anti-biotic medication from your veterinarian.
Dusts, wind, pollen, the things that make your eyes burn and water have the same 
effect on your Bulldog. You can rinse the eyes out with a solution such as Clear 
Eyes. If the eyes are badly irritated, use a contact lens ointment such as 
Bausch & Lomb Duolube. For any other eye ailment, take the dog to your 
Cherry Eye
The gland, which normally resides under the lower eyelid at the inside corner of 
the eye, will sometimes "pop" out. This is not as horrible as it appears to be 
and does not require emergency treatment. It does require treatment at the 
earliest possible time by a veterinarian recommended for "Cherry Eye’s. The 
quicker the dog gets treatment the better the chance for successful treatment 
without removing the gland. Removal of the gland often results in a "dry" eye.
Some Bulldog's have their tail set in a pocket. If yours does1 you will need to 
make a special effort to keep that pocket clean and dry. Wipe it out frequently. 
You may need to use cotton balls rather than a wash cloth if the pocket is 
tight. Be sure to dry it thoroughly and apply an ointment such as Panalog, or a 
drying powder.
You take his temperature just as you take a small baby's - rectally. Use a good 
rectal thermometer, lubricate generously with Vaseline, insert gently, hold onto 
the thermometer dogs have been known to "suck" them in! wait about five minutes, 
pull out and read. Normal temperature for most dogs is from 100.5 to 101.
Start giving your Bulldog pieces of ice to eat when he is still a small puppy so 
that he learns to like it. Luckily, most Bulldogs do. This is a great way to 
cool down a hot dog. Blocks of ice make a great summer time toy. A pan of ice in 
or on top of his crate helps keep him cool.
Insect Stings
If a bee or other insect stings your Bulldog, give him Benadryl (either capsule 
or liquid) and watch him closely for the next half-hour. You may also apply an 
ice pack to the area where he was stung if you know where it is. If the area 
around the sting swells and hardens, if hives appear, if he seems to have 
difficulty breathing - rush him to the veterinarian. This is no time to dally; 
your dog's life depends on quick treatment.